Mamquam Lake (Rampart Ponds)

July 29-30, 2022

Distance: 42km round-trip

Elevation gain: 1875m

Time required: 13-14 hours (best broken up over 2 days)

This was my longest solo backpacking adventure to date and it was also a very spiritual one.

I had booked my reservation for Rampart Ponds campground not knowing that the trail was actually closed due to washouts. It had not yet been opened for the season. Somehow, I didn't learn this and the person who checked my reservation at the Diamond Head parking lot didn't seem to know this either. This meant I was to see absolutely no one on my hike. It turned out to contribute greatly to the experience.

At about 8:30am, on a stunningly beautiful, clear day, off I went from the Diamond Head parking lot. The hike starts on the Elfin Lakes trail. I've written in detail about Elfin Lakes before so I won't go into much detail about it here. Suffice it to say, it is a beautiful trail.

It took me 2.5 hours to reach Elfin Lakes. They were still partially frozen though the tent pads were clear. I continued on without stopping at the lakes.

Past Elfin Lakes, the trail turns into the Mamquam Lake trail. It descends into sub-alpine habitat and makes it way around beautiful alpine meadows. After a few kilometers, it opens up into the stunning Ring Creek valley. This is where the washout that had closed the trail was located which meant that I had quite a steep and rocky descent down to the creek. I honestly didn't take much notice of it. I thought it was just a normal part of the trail.

Ring Creek valley

'Creek' has connotations of a slow meandering stream of water. Ring Creek is more like a river - the flow is fast and furious. Thankfully, there is a structurally sound bridge that allows you to cross it.

Once on the other side of Ring Creek, the trail follows parallel to it as it gradually ascends a rocky ridge. The landscape is barren, desolate, and ineffably beautiful. You can hear every sound and see miles into the distance. It was incredibly silent - a defeaning silence. Amongst this vast, barren landscape, I felt like the only person left in the universe.

Atwell Peak looming above Ring Creek

At the top of the ridge is the trail junction for Opal Cone. From where I was standing beside the junction, I was looked down into the valley and was shocked to find an almost completely snow-covered landscape. I knew the snow had been late to melt this season but I hadn't been expecting snow like this.

Snow covered valley below Opal Cone

The trail descended into the snowy valley. Once onto the snow, there were no signs of a trail so I had to use my GPS to ensure I went in the right direction.

Partially unfrozen tarns in the valley below Opal Cone

At one point, I had to cross a half-frozen stream of fairly deep water. Without snow, this is no problem. But in these conditions, it was quite precarious. I spent a long time trying to find the best spot to test the ice. Thankfully, I managed to cross without getting too wet and without falling into the water.

A little ways past the tarns, the trail opens up into yet another beautiful river valley. Thankfully, there was no snow in this valley.

Zig Zag creek valley

The trail descended to Zig Zag creek, another creek-turned-raging-river. This one also had a bridge to make the crossing easy.

By this point, I was getting tired and I was incredibly hot. The sun had been baring down on me all day in this barren, exposed landscape. I had also been followed by an annoying horse fly for a couple of kilometers and was getting tired if it taking chunks out of me.

Thankfully, I didn't have far left to go. Once on the other size of Zig Zag creek, I ascended another rocky ridge and made it to Rampart Ponds campground. It had taken me 4 hours and 10 minutes from Elfin Lakes, which included a 30-minute lunch break. That totaled to 6 hours and 40 minutes since I had left the parking lot.

The campground was almost entirely covered in snow. Miraculously, there was a small patch of one tent pad that was clear of snow. This is where I set up my tent. There also happened to be a small stream right beside it for water. I took both as a sign from the universe that I was supposed to be there.

Doorless pit toilet and bear cache at Rampart Ponds campground

The only tent pad free of snow

Mostly still frozen Rampart Ponds

The area was entirely exposed and despite the snow, it was boiling hot. I sat with my legs in the frozen ponds to try and cool off. I found a tiny patch of shade beside two huge rocks and sat there for a long time.

Me with my makeshift head covering hiding from the sun beside some rocks

I decided not to go the extra 1.8km to Mamquam Lake. The trail was entirely covered in snow and I had had enough for one day. As there was nothing to do and nowhere to go, I ended up going to bed quite early.

The night was calm, cool, and quiet. As I got out of my tent to go pee sometime during the night, I glanced up at the night sky and was breathless. Hundreds upon hundreds of stars and edges of distant galaxies greeted my eyes. I had never seen the night sky with such clarity before. It felt like I was looking upon something alien and foreign. I felt the insignificance of myself and my life on this rock we call Earth. It truly took my breath away.

I woke up early, a little before 5:30am. I packed up my gear and was greeted to a beautiful morning sunrise.

Morning light illuminating Atwell Peak (big centre peak) and Mount Garibaldi (sharp arete on the right)

The day was just as sunny and hot as the previous one. I went on my way and made it back to Elfin Lakes in 3 hours and 20 minutes. Although there is elevation gain and loss in both directions, there is more elevation gain heading towards Mamquam Lake than away from it.

It was at Elfin Lakes that I finally saw people again. It felt strange after spending so much time completely alone. I spent 1.5 hours at the lakes, eating breakfast, talking to people I met, and taking a refreshing dip.

I hiked the rest of the way back to the Diamond Head parking lot (2 hours and 5 minutes) with a nice young couple that I had met. My return journey had been shorter than the previous day - only 5 total hours of hiking for covering 21km.

The trail is not actually that difficult - it is just long.

This was an amazing trip that had allowed me to stretch my comfort zone and connect to the innermost parts of myself and the world. I came away feeling like I had made an important connection with the natural world; one that I was going to carry with me through the rest of my life. I know I'll be back someday to make it all the way to Mamquam Lake and explore this beautiful backcountry further.